Walk the empire.
Colosseum
Combined ticket €18 (+€6 arena); book a timed slot online to skip lines.
Roman Forum & Palatine
Included in the Colosseum ticket; wear good shoes, little shade.
Lunch in Monti
Pasta €10-14; charming neighbourhood just behind the Forum.
Capitoline & evening stroll
Michelangelo's square; free views over the Forum at dusk.
Art and St Peter's.
Vatican Museums & Sistine Chapel
Entry €20 (+€5 booking); reserve the earliest slot, it gets packed fast.
St Peter's Basilica
Free entry; dome climb €8-10. Dress modestly, security queue can be long.
Lunch in Prati
Pizza al taglio €4-8; better value than the basilica-front cafes.
Castel Sant'Angelo
Entry €15; rooftop views and the bridge of angels at golden hour.
The fountains-and-piazzas day.
Pantheon
Entry €5; the best-preserved ancient building, free oculus drama.
Piazza Navona & Trevi
Free; toss a coin. Go very early to photograph it without crowds.
Best gelato & lunch
Gelato €3-5; near the Pantheon, a Roman institution since 1900.
Spanish Steps & Villa Borghese
Free park; rent a bike or catch sunset at the Pincio terrace.
Rome's most charming quarter.
Testaccio food market
Supplì €1.50, sandwiches €5; the city's best food-market street eats.
Carbonara lunch
Classic carbonara/cacio e pepe €10-14; avoid menus with photos.
Trastevere wander
Cobbled lanes, ivy and the glittering basilica mosaics (free).